Monday, October 13, 2008

Terrabacus

They say you don’t know what you have until it’s gone. Not always true. I knew what I had when I had Terrabacus, and now it’s gone, and I’m even more sad. Technically, it’s not gone. I’m sure it’s still right there on Muntaner by Diagonal, but for me, far away in Austin, it’s gone.

From the outside, I thought it was a wine store/wine bar. This is not completely untrue. It’s got smart, frosted glass sliding doors. On the inside, it’s all black and red, with leather bar stools and tall tables. There’s a small wine cellar that doesn’t even scratch at the surface of the wine list (one of those booklets that rotates on one binding, more like an elongated set of cards, comprised of many, many decks). Frankly, it’s too overwhelming for me to look at, I’ve often let others make the wine decisions for me.

When it comes to the food though, I know what I want. They do the ever-popular menú del día, but I think the best part is their a la carte menu because it’s another one of those miniature-dish places (think San Sebastian) where you can try a variety of foods, and find something to please everyone at the table.

I’ve been there many times over, enough to try most things on the menu, and I have a couple favorites. I remember the first time I went, I was impressed before our plates even arrived. First they brought out a modern square plate with sliced bread and a little tumbler of olive oil dotted with pink peppercorns. Completely divine. I had never given pink peppercorns a second thought, and here they were, releasing a little bit of sweetness with every bite of bread and oil. It’s little details like that that set Terrabacus apart. Well, that and the waitstaff. Living in Barcelona, you don’t come to expect service as a standout at eating and drinking establishments. You more get the feeling they’re looking at you going, “what are you doing here?” This is not the case at Terrabacus, and it could be attributed to my frequent visits, but I’m willing to take it either way. We became friends with a few waiters in particular, who always spent a little extra time talking to us, seeing how things were going, discussing food. What really convinced me that they paid more attention than your average bear was when I was walking down a busy Barcelona street and a man smiled, waved enthusiastically and said hi to me. I turned my head, confused, and then realized it was my waiter, and he was acknowledging me outside the restaurant. In other places, you barely get that inside a restaurant.

And to accompany the friendly faces, there’s the food. There are many dishes that we’ve gotten since the first time and haven’t skipped a beat since. The first is a martini glass of raw tuna, avocado, black sesame, and topped off with a bunch of sprouts. Tuna and avocado, not a new combination, but a winner. And you feel good after you eat it, nothing too heavy—that’s for the next plate.Little rolls of bacon and cheese. The bacon’s crispy and fatty (naturally) and the cheese oozes as you bite into it. Once again, this one’s not rocket science, but there’s a reason people keep ordering it. And although these some of their dishes might not be new, it’s the presentation that gives it personality, and the little dabs of sauces, some sweet and mango based, some vinegar and sour, all coming together in the end. The reason I don’t call these tapas is because they’re not typical tortilla de patatas or jamon or something like that. It’s all real food, just in miniature. So instead of getting a big bowl of pasta and being done with the night, you get a little plate of four purses of pear filled pasta in a creamy goat cheese sauce, plus all the other little plates you want. These purses are reminiscent of I Quattro Leoni in Florence, who has a very similar, equally as rich pasta. These have been a staple since the first trip to Terrabacus. So after you have your little dish of pasta, you then get a little plate of my favorite salad of life. And I’m not faking it saying “I love salad” because you’re supposed to because they’re good for you. This really is the best salad there is. There’s foie in it. And carpaccio. And little crunchy bits of puffed rice. And of course greens. Yall, it don’t get any better than that. If this is being healthy, I’m all for it. And because you’re so healthy with your salads and smaller-than-normal rations, you might then get a dish of a late-discovered gem: won-ton pasta ravioli, stuffed with mushrooms and served in sauce of foie and truffle oil. You’re probably getting a heart attack just reading this, but there are only three little ravioli, and don’t be turned off but the ‘won-ton’ description. I think that was my problem and the reason for the delayed ordering, which was a mistake. I was picturing something like a mixture between an egg-roll and ravioli, or some sort of deep-fried pasta concoction, which this was not. Instead, it was rich, decadent, amazing pasta. Then, you might get a surprise from the kitchen (if you’re as friendly with the staff as we are). I can’t take credit for this one, but one of my friends had talked to them on a prior visit, urging them to make their own take on patatas bravas (inspired by Taverna’s originality), and on this next visit as we were dining together, we were presented with a martini glass containing a potato puree, layered with a spicy mayonnaise, orangey in color, and sprinkled with a few cubes of fried potato. Ah the perks of being in good with the ones who count. I think we were sort of taste-testers, and I’m wondering if they’ve since put it on the menu. There are plenty more tiny delights at Terrabacus, but I’m going to move onto desserts, because they deserver a bit of space too. They have a chocolate coulant, which, unless you cook it too long, is at the top of my list. And they don’t cook it too long here. It’s cakey on the outside and runny batter on the inside. It pairs nicely with a glass of Pedro Ximenez, or another dessert wine offered on the menu. One dessert that really surprised me was Kingston cocoa ice cream with confit of orange. I didn’t order it, but tried someone else’s and it was really intense chocolate. I wasn’t expecting that, but I really liked it. I normally reserve my ice cream for my few choice gelaterias, but this was delicious, as rich as a truffle. The pink peppercorns made a tiny appearance in this dessert too. If you get a menú del día, there’s the option of cheese for dessert. And after having been in Spain, and now back in America, you really appreciate the Europeans for their cheese. Like I said, I knew what I had, and now I don’t have it (although I can get some of that cheese here, but not all, and definitely not Terrabacus).

Saturday, September 20, 2008

Uchi

Ok, so now that I’m back in Austin, I figure I should write about an Austin restaurant. What better way to announce that I’m here? And this restaurant of all restaurants, this one that I’ve been wanting to go to for at least 4 years, this was somewhat my ‘homecoming’ meal.

It’s not Mexican or barbeque (we do have a bit of other food down here), and it’s not casual. It’s also not so secret anymore. Uchi is one of those fine-dining places, fancy pants restaurants that you see sleek ads for in all the local trendy magazines. And genius chef Tyson Cole was recently on Iron Chef America! That definitely deserves an exclamation mark. So yes, there’s a lot of hype for Uchi. Sometimes this can throw me off, like before going to a movie that ‘everybody just loves’ and there’s so much build up and then it might not deliver. I think Uchi delivered because there’s nowhere else in town where you can get food like that. Like I said, we’ve got our fair share of Mexican and barbeque and Southern, at all different price ranges, but this sort of Japanese Austin doesn’t have much of (well, besides Uchi). And the décor isn’t bad either. It’s got deep, dark red walls, a nice little stone garden and fountain and wooden screens to block the street while you wait with a drink for a table, which will most surely happen because it was packed at 7 o’clock on a Tuesday night. This bothered my parents. Throughout the whole meal they complained that they couldn’t hear a thing and it was too loud, and they had pictured and expected some serene, quiet setting. I guess for the youths, the noise factor isn’t as big an issue, although it was hard at points to hear.

But when they present you with the menu, you just don’t know where to start. There are cold and hot appetizers, nightly specials, and then a regular menu with soups, sushi, sashimi, tempura, etc. Our waiter made it easy for us: told us to do the tasting menu which is mainly pulled from the specials, and if you want you can add things to it. We did, because he said it was for two people, but could easily feed more. By adding a few dishes, it fed four of us. This was best because I was eyeing a few things on the specials and I think we got a total of ten dishes, and then also added a few other things that we couldn’t live without.

Before I start in on the food, it must be mentioned that there’s no liquor, just beer and wine. Having not been in the States during my formative wine-drinking years, I know nothing about American wines. It was a relief to see Spanish wines on there, and more importantly, a Spanish wine I knew and liked. It was a red from a region called Bierzo and listed as $35, which I think is a steal compared to most other bottles listed. Spain’s got that over the US definitely, you can go to a nice restaurant and get a great bottle of wine barely marked up, for something as low as 12 euros. Anyways, we go the Bierzo and had about a third of the bottle left and the waiter came over and said, “Now, if yall get a second bottle I’ll make you a deal and give you each of them for 20.” Obviously yes, we were already careening towards our second bottle anyways. So we liked him, and we liked our wine. And this has never happened to us before, and I don’t know if it’s standard there or what, but I’d be willing to go back and find out. So we’ve got our wine, let’s move onto the food: we started off with an amuse in a little shot glass. It was a puree of Santa Claus melon (never heard of it in my life, but no surprise it’s on wikipedia) with ginger oil. I didn’t feel either way about this, it was just a quick shot and I don’t love melon, but it was fine. I was ready for the real stuff though. Next came something from the cold appetizer: sea bass, grapeseed oil, garlic, and black pepper in a citrus vinaigrette. This was very light and fresh, almost too light. The fish was so tender, but I could have used just a pinch more salt or a little more bite to the citrus vinaigrette, although it’s definitely better to be on the light side than the overbearing, too fishy. And there was a crispy fried chunk of fish skin and fin. That was a nice contrast, just a slight crunch to the velvety fish. Next was something from the specials, that I was actually thinking of getting. I’m much happier that I got just a taste from lots of plates because there were other dishes that I ended up liking much better. This was Omaaru Ebi: maine lobster, hami melon gazpacho, cilantro puree, and thai chili oil. The lobster was great; just how lobster should be cooked. But the other components I wasn’t too impressed with. It must have been the melon gazpacho and the fact that it said thai chili oil but it definitely needed to be spicier for more dimension. Fourth was dish that ranks up there with my favorites. I would go back and get this and be satisfied. Suzuki Viche (makes you wonder what Suzuki means): striped bass, garlic, lemon-thyme vinaigrette, spring onion, and okra. This fish was amazing. That perfect balance of pure fresh fish with a flavor of salt, and it just melted in your mouth. I was also really impressed with the okra; I’m used to fried okra which I don’t love. I think this was my first time to have fresh okra and I liked it. Everything was working in this dish. The next dish was also a winner. Hotate Uikyou: seared diver scallops, fennel, lobster mushroom, orange, and cauliflower. I’ve had a newfound appreciation for scallops ever since my first meal at Cinc Sentits, and these kept up their end of the deal. Soft on the inside, crispy browned on the outside. Wish there had been more. The cauliflower and mushrooms were also great, both browned and tasty, but the standout was of course the scallops. I think my mother voted this her favorite. Following the scallops we had a dish off the tasting menu that my sister picked. Bacon Steakie: twice-cooked kurobuta pork belly with green apples. Totally amazing. Mouth-watering. Words like these come to mind. You have to get over the fact that there’s fat interspersed with all the meat because that’s what makes it like butter. But it’s crispy and blackened on the outside, so you get a crunch and then almost liquid as the flavorful pork spills over your tongue. My mom said it reminded her of spare ribs that her dad used to cook, a great nostalgic flavor. These were so rich too, if you’re not into skimpy pieces of fish, these will fill in nicely. And I appreciate the mixture of fish and meat during the meal. So what dish are we on? Seven? Hamachi Cure: Maplewood-smoked baby yellowtail, yucca, asian pear, and garlic brittle. This was good when you ate a bit of everything together, in one bite. The fish was soft and light, I think to showcase it’s freshness, even though it still preferred the stronger striped bass. But it all pulled together nicely by taking a crunchy yucca chip, some fish, a bit of garlic, and some of the greens and eating it all together. Next was another a la carte item that I picked. I just wanted some regular sushi rolls, to kind of give me a basis to compare to. You know, if you’re evaluating goodness, you need level playing ground, like trying vanilla ice cream instead of going for chocolate chocolate chip or whatever. We just got tuna and avocado rolls, and they were superior. It’s been a while since I’ve had sushi in Austin, but like I said before, there aren’t too many places where you could get sushi and meat and fish of this quality. I really liked their maki rolls and wish I had had a plate of different types to try more. The ninth dish was another one of my favorites. Gin Dara Miso: pan roasted black cod, miso, white eggplant, shishito, garlic, kumquat. After living in Spain, you get pretty familiar with cod, namely salt cod, and sometimes you don’t come to expect much of it. But this was a completely different experience, a different fish. It was falling apart because it was so tender and well-cooked with the pan roasted sides lending lots of flavor. It was hard for me to focus on all the ingredients in these dishes, especially when the main item would steal the spotlight, but I remember someone saying the white eggplant was ‘buttery.’ The next dish that came out was the dark horse. Never in my life did I think I’d eat eel (except that time in San Sebastian when I thought they were noodles, but that’s a different story). This was nigiri of grilled fresh-water eel with ginger. Simple and delicious. I’ve stopped turning down most food now, especially if it’s on the tasting menu and the chef thinks I should eat it. I was surprised at how moist it was and kind of meaty, not really like a fish texture. This went down real easy. Alright, we got two dishes left on the tasting menu (not including dessert), so stay with me. Wagyu Midori: oak-grilled wagyu short rib, green tomatoes, celery, tarragon, parsley, lemongrass, and green peppercorn. Strange that I had just had Kobe beef for the first time a couple weeks before this. Didn’t taste any different to me. So now I got to try the wagyu. This was noticeably different from other beef. They gave us 5 pieces, so each person took one and I just popped the whole thing in my mouth. It was marbled with lots of fat, and it wasn’t like chewing on a piece of fat at all, but you knew it was there. There was lots of chewing involved. With the fifth piece, we cut it into little squares and divided it, and it was a lot better just by getting a bite-size piece. I still prefer regular beef because it was a texture I’m not used to, a little too much fat mixed in there (don’t ask me why the pork belly works and this doesn’t, it just does). But on this plate, I concentrated on all the other aspects: the green tomatoes were really great. Once again, I’m used to fried green tomatoes, so I was happy to taste their tartness coming out. And what really blew my mind was the ‘celery.’ It looked like cooked green onions but tasted exactly like celery, it was the weirdest thing ever, but fun. Finally we got Foie Ume: seared Hudson Valley foie gras, green plums, watermelon radish, lemongrass, black pepper, and concord grape jelly (not Smuckers). This was truly a beautiful dish. All the colors and the image of watermelon on the radish half moons was amazing to look at. I’ve been eating foie now for a few years, but I still like to take it in doses, and usually with toast or bread if I can, to cut the fat. There was no bread to be had. Once again though, if you ate a bit of everything together, a sliver of foie on a faux watermelon, a little sweet jelly, and most crucially, a basil leaf, it molded into perfect pairings inside your mouth. From this I learned that foie and basil could be real friends, I’ve never noticed them coupled together before, but I think more people should experiment with it because I loved it. So ended our savory meal, but we still had the dessert to come. They have a separate pastry chef, Mr. Cole does not do that himself. And on the dessert menu there were other things that caught my eye more than what we were served, but I’ll have to save that for next time I go back for a few particular dishes and my Spanish wine. I don’t have a copy of the dessert menu so I’m jogging my memory by looking at the picture and hopefully won’t get it to wrong. Here’s what I’m proposing: beet tatin, lemon gelato, Sicilian pistachios, and some sort of tuille. I mention that first because I have no problem remembering that. It was slightly over-salted. And when I say slightly, I mean really. I forgive them, because it can be broken into tiny shards and top off the tatin or ice cream and be that missing link. But if you get a big bite out of it, watch out. The beet tatin was ok, not great. I liked the gelato and crumbled pistachios best, although I’m more of a heavy, creamy, rich ice cream kinda girl (think chocolate, caramel, hazelnut) and not so much a fruit ice cream, but it sufficed, and I wasn’t exactly starving. The colors on the plate were deep and bright, and the dessert was no doubt thought out, but I’d like to see what the other ones taste like (I seem to remember a peanut butter parfait).
I left Uchi very happy and full, and wanting to go back and order everything that I didn’t get to try. Tyson hooked me. My mom wants to go back just to have a drink in the lounge area outside. After I went, I talked to someone and they were telling me where their favorite sushi restaurant was, that they didn’t like Uchi as much. But I think they’re trying not to give into the hype. But Uchi is much more than just sushi, it’s that amazing seared black cod, and that pork belly. And even foie gras!

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Wedding Shower Cake Good Enough to Be Wedding Cake

So I’m back in Austin now and I will blame the move and the readjustment for the long absence in writing. But now I’m back to it, and it does make me sad that I’ve had the same post at the top of my page for over a month.

Part of the readjusting is finding a job, deciding what you’re going to do with yourself now, in a new city. Cooking would be an ideal way for me to go, but it’s not a career you can just jump into, nor is it very lucrative (not that I’m in it for the money, but it’d be nice to not live with my parents forever). So one way I’m starting small is by cooking for friends at their events and functions. One of my sister’s friends is getting married and we were throwing a wedding shower for her, so I offered my services. My full and complete services, which means not just dessert but dinner too. It was a lot of fun and kept me busy for a few days, but I have to thank the people that cleaned the dishes for me. That would’ve been a whole lot more.

The beauty of arranging this myself was picking and choosing exactly what I wanted for the menu, not having to report for work and be given a to-do list that was already mapped out for me. For desserts, I knew I would do a cheesecake, and went with a chocolate coffee one that I had made before. At the last minute, I decided to do a peach pie for good measure. It was something I had made a lot before and definitely couldn’t hurt. For the third dessert, I picked something new from the Macrina Bakery cookbook, in Seattle, given to me by my friend Leah who has discovered the food scene up there. My one quibble with the book is that it doesn’t have any pictures of the food. I love to see big, colorful pictures of the finished product. And it would’ve been great for this recipe especially as it turned out beautifully. Just reading the name committed me to it: almond cake with mascarpone cream and fresh blackberries.

I changed a few things, as I tend to do. First of all, I was making this the night before the shower, you can’t wait till the last minute for everything. It tells you to put blueberries in between the cake layers, but I didn’t want them running and bleeding everywhere, especially through the icing, so I didn’t put them there and waited until just before serving to top the cake off with them. Also, I didn’t use just blueberries, but blackberries too and I think that’s even better, a mixture of flavors and sizes of berries. Oh, and it didn’t make enough icing but I had run out of mascarpone, so I used a bit of sour cream as a substitute. But a note on that: I couldn’t taste the mascarpone at all, and it tasted just like a regular whipped cream icing, so I was a little disappointed with that, although there were no complaints from any of the guests. This was by far the most popular, a surprise to me, and there was barely any left at the end of the night. Someone even said it could and should be a wedding cake. I think I’d try different icings with it though, cream cheese or perhaps just a regular whipped cream. I was also surprised that it was such a hit after only about 24 hours prior having almost thrown it away completely and ripped all my hair out. Words of warning: this cake is very fragile. You’re supposed to bake it in a springform pan and cut into three rounds, but my springform was occupied (cheesecake), so I put it in two round pans and cut those in half. It did not come out very thick, and one of the layers fell apart completely when I tried to lift it so I couldn’t even use it. So it ended up being three layers for me anyways, but handle with care.


Almond Cake with Mascarpone Cream and Blackberries and Blueberries
Adapted from Macrina Bakery Cookbook

cake
3 eggs
¾ c plain yogurt
2 tsp pure almond extract
½ tsp pure vanilla extract
1 ½ c cake flour
1 ¾ c sugar
¾ tsp baking soda
¾ tsp baking powder
½ tsp salt
1 ½ c finely ground almonds
8 oz (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature

almond syrup
1 c sugar
½ c water
2 tsp pure almond extract
pinch of salt

mascarpone cream (I would double this)
1 c heavy cream
¼ c powdered sugar
8 oz mascarpone, room temperature (you can try other cheeses or sour cream)
pinch of salt

blueberries and blackberries
1 c fresh berries
1 tsp lemon zest
pinch of salt
Preheat the oven to 325F. Grease and flour your baking pan(s). Combine eggs, ¼ yogurt, almond extract, and vanilla extract in a medium bowl. Mix well with a whisk and set aside. Mix flour, sugar, baking soda, baking powder, salt, and almonds in a medium bowl. Place butter in the bowl of your stand mixer and using the paddle attachment, cream the butter on medium speed for 5 to 8 minutes. The butter will be light and fluffy (unless you’re in Texas and room temperature is more like boiling so the butter will be more melted than fluffy). Add the dry ingredients and the remaining ½ c yogurt. Turn the switch on and off a few times to start bringing the ingredients together, then increase speed to medium and mix for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the egg mixture and mix well, stopping to scrape down the sides and continuing until fully combined. Pour the batter into the prepared pan(s) and bake on center rack of oven for about an hour or until the top is golden brown and a toothpick come out almost clean. Let cool on a wire rack for at least an hour.
For the almond syrup, combine sugar and water in a medium saucepan and mix with a whisk to dissolve the sugar. Cook over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring frequently, then remove from the heat and add almond extract. Let cool slightly before using.
When the cakes are cool you can make the icing. Whip the cream and sugar until medium-soft peaks form. Whip the mascarpone with a whisk for 1 to 2 minutes, and then fold the whipped cream into the mascarpone.
When you’re ready to put the cake together, I would suggest macerating the berries first. The book says just for a few minutes, but I did it for a few hours and it turned out great. So mix the berries, ¼ c almond syrup, and lemon zest in a bowl and put in the fridge until ready to top off the cake. Now take the cake and cut in half (if using two pans, very carefully), or in thirds (if using one springform pan). Put a layer on a cake stand and brush with the syrup, then spread icing on top. Top it with another layer, more almond syrup, and icing, until you finish the layers. Ice the top and sides (although the book says not to ice the sides and I would have left it too, but it did not look pretty uniced). Store in the refrigerator and when about to serve, pour the berries on top, letting some of the juice run down the sides. Enjoy. my trio of desserts

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Cochinita Pibil

Finally it’s summer in Barcelona. The weather threw us for a loop there for a while, raining and cold in mid-June. But now the heat has arrived and isn’t going anywhere. But I am. I’m leaving Barcelona to go back to Austin, which will be no relief from heat, and from what I hear and read, a bit hotter than here.

But this post actually has nothing to do with that, it’s just about the inaugural barbeque of the summer at our friend’s terrace which came part-way through July (delayed summer=delayed barbeque). Now when they say ‘barbeque’ here, it is not brisket, sausage, ribs, potato salad, and pie like real Texas barbeque, it’s more a way of saying ‘we’re going to use the grill and eat and drink on the deck.’ Which is just fine, I just don’t want any confusion. For this first bbq, I decided to bring a Mexican flare to it and try a traditional dish from Yucatán. I already had some achiote, the red annatto seed used to give it color, so I was ready to make cochinita pibil. I’m not much on cooking meat usually, but with a few tips and a shopping guide, all turned out well. I ended up getting shoulder/back meat, and you marinate it overnight, and slow-roast it and it turns out great. All together a pretty easy dish, if you know the right ingredients to get. Most traditional recipes roast it in banana leaves, but it does just as well double-wrapped in foil. Pickle some red onions the morning of serving it, get some fresh corn tortillas, and voila, you got your homemade, authentic Mexican Cochinita Pibil.

And you’re lucky if you have leftovers, which we surprisingly did (must have been that I also brought Velveeta and Rotel). The next day, we were all out of corn tortillas but had just enough cochinita pibil and onions to top off a salad. It made for beautiful colors and really went well with some green leaves.



Cochinita Pibil
Serves something like 8 if there is other food, if not, grab your forks quick

1 kilo pork shoulder/pork butt
About 1 c bitter orange juice: this can be from Sevilla oranges, or a mixture of lemons, limes, and grapefruits (juice of 1 grapefruit and 2 each of limes and lemons)
1 Tbsp achiote
¼ tsp cumin
¼ tsp oregano
12 peppercorns
¼ tsp cinnamon
Pinch freshly ground nutmeg
4 garlic cloves
Pinch of dried chili
Salt

The night before you plan on serving this, lightly toast the achiote, cumin, and peppercorns in a pan over medium heat. When you smell them, take them off the heat, put in a pestle and mortar with the oregano, cinnamon, nutmeg, and a pinch of salt and grind to a fine powder. Now add the garlic, dried chili, a bit more salt, and the three tablespoons of the citrus juice to the powder and grind and mix until you get a paste. Word of advice: it will be very red so be careful not to stain your clothes (it will most likely stain for hands and pestle and mortar temporarily).
Line a baking dish one length with foil, but with plenty to double over itself. Do the same for the width. Now place the pork in the dish and prick all over with a fork on all sides. Pour the citrus juice over it, you should have enough that there’s a little pool within the foil. Now take the achiote paste and rub it on the pork, do one side, turn over and do the other side, making sure it’s completely covered with the paste. Fold the foil over and seal it off around the meat, then put in the fridge and leave to marinate overnight.
The next day, cook the meat at 325F/160C for about 4 hours or until it’s very fork tender. Half way through, take the meat out and baste it with the juices in the pan. When finished, remove from oven, let cool a bit and then pull apart into shreds.

Pickled Red Onions
2 red onions
citrus juice, if you have some leftover, good, otherwise make a new mixture
vinegar
salt

Slice the onions in half and then quarters, and then slice lengthwise so you come out with half-circles slices. Put in a bowl and cover with a mixture of juices and vinegar (the proportions aren’t very important, both will pickle the onions just fine), and sprinkle on some salt. Leave for at least four hours (perfect to do while you wait for the meat to cook) and stir every now and then. When they are finished, they should be a bit softer and more flexible. To assemble, on a corn tortilla place some pork and then top with the onions. Roll up and enjoy.

Monday, July 21, 2008

Hazelnut and Lemon Stuff

I have this book, Le Champignon Sauvage. Actually it’s not my book, I’ve borrowed it for an extended period, and actually it’s called Essence, but that doesn’t matter. It’s recipes from David Everitt-Matthias. It’s fancy stuff, we’re talking multi-step recipes, for example: roast grey-legged partridge with chicory caramelized in maple syrup, and elderberry gastric, or brill fillet with salsify and artichokes, hazelnut emulsion, and red wine and tarragon jus. Yes, you’re lucky if there’s a dish that contains only one word you don’t know or only one ingredient you don’t know how to obtain. And so with all those emulsions and juses and confits and stuff, comes a long process. There was actually one main that I thought to myself, “hey, it’s only got three parts, and I have access to all of them!” so I gave it a go. It was brandade (poached cod, garlic puree and potato gnocchi). Alright, the gnocchi turned out not so great, might just be me. And the fish was not cooking, and we kept thinking it should only be poached for a few minutes but wasn’t flaking like it should, so that didn’t come out well. So then I got discouraged.

But no, this post is not about that dish, because in the back of the book are desserts and not all of them are as complicated as the savory food. They’re still multi-part, but little things, and I made two of them. Well, I took two different desserts and stuck them together. Pistachio and olive oil cake plus lemon and pine nut iced mousse, or semifreddo, with one tiny change, I had perfectly good ground hazelnuts and I do love them, so I substituted them for pistachios. And I should mention that about a year ago I made the cake with pistachios and it’s an amazing color. The hazelnut isn’t as pretty but darn good. And I thought of making these two random desserts together because they seemed like they would compliment each other and they did. The hazelnut was sweet and extremely moist (probably because it contained both olive oil and butter) and had a nice orange flavor to it, and the semifreddo was really tart with a bit of crunch. I ended up liking it more than I had expected because I don’t go for lemon/lime flavors in dessert very much, but it was somewhat addictive, and I kept spooning more onto my plate. Next time, though, I would cut back on the lemons. It used six. Six! That’s a whole lot from such a powerful fruit, and it kinda made you pucker. I remedied that with a bit of powdered sugar, but there’s no way to really hide six lemons. So I’ve made the changes for yall, and added and subtracted a few other things from the original recipes.



Hazelnut Olive Oil Cake and Lemon and Pine Nut Iced Mousse

cake
250 g ground hazelnuts
50 g flour
1 tsp baking powder
salt
125 ml olive oil (a little over ½ c)
100 g unsalted butter, melted
1 vanilla bean
3 eggs
200 g sugar

juice and zest of 1 orange

Mix the hazelnuts, flour, baking powder, and a pinch of salt together. Add the olive oil to the melted butter, then scrape in the vanilla bean seeds. Whisk the eggs and sugar together until pale, then slowly whisk in the oil and butter. Whisk in the hazelnut mixture, then add the orange juice and zest. Pour into a springform pan with parchment paper on the bottom. Bake at 160C/325F for about 40 minutes or until a toothpick comes out almost clean.

semifreddo
juice and zest of 3 lemons (not 6)
200 ml double cream
100 g caster sugar
30 ml water
4-5 egg yolks
100 g pine nuts, toasted

Put the lemon juice and zest in a small pan and boil until reduced (he says until 75 milliliters, but it’s not that easy to measure, so just reduce). Whip the double cream until it forms soft peaks, then set in fridge. Put the sugar and water in a small saucepan and heat gently, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to a boil and boil until it reaches soft-ball stage (115C, be careful, this happens very quickly). While it is boiling, whisk the egg yolks in a mixer until thick, airy, and very pale. When the sugar syrup is ready, slowly drizzle it on the egg yolks with the machine running on high. Whisk until cold. Fold in the lemon juice, then the whipped cream and finally add the pine nuts (his pictures have pine nuts perfectly dispersed, but mine ended up at the bottom). Pour into a bowl or pan and freeze until set, at least six hours.

Sunday, July 6, 2008

Cinc Sentits

Cinc Sentits, one of my first restaurants in Barcelona. My first tasting menu here, that’s for sure. I revisited it for the second time about a month ago for someone’s surprise birthday dinner, and after that, D declared it the best yet. In Spain. And possibly one of the best in his life. Good choice me.

So if you haven’t heard of Cinc Sentits, it’s a pretty nice restaurant, but I don’t think it’s as high-profile as some of the $$$$, famous restaurants in the city, although it does the same sort of modernization of traditional dishes with foams and curious combinations, etc. Only it might do it better. At least one person definitely thinks it does, he voted it better than Mugaritz, which is much more recognized internationally.


Cinc Sentits has a very clean, minimal interior, and a cubic orange vase with a single flower on each table. They have 2 different tasting menus, and during the day they do a menú del día (which I just had a couple days ago, but this is about the dinner) for about 30 euros.

So when we went for dinner a few weeks ago, we chose the longer menu (as I tend to do). I didn’t get the wine pairings, D did because all but one were white. Before starting, it helps to know that although the chef is Catalan, he spent a long time in Canada, which influences some of his food, most notably in the amuse that every table gets at the beginning, lunch or dinner. It’s a layered shot, sea salt at the bottom, followed by maple syrup, and topped with a cava sabayonne. And you do shoot it, all in one gulp, and it’s delicious. That union of salt and sweet is one of my favorites.
Now let the menu commence. First off there was a gel of sea water and peppers with a cockle, spear of asparagus, and cream of asparagus. Alright, alright, so I just went on about how this was a spectacular meal, but first of all I don’t like peppers. And this was my first sea water gel, and I’m not crazy about it. D gobbled it up though, and this didn’t get me started off on the wrong foot, it just gave me more room for the other stuff. Next was the foie. Yes, the foie. This more than made up for previous gel of sea water. I have decided this was the best foie gras I’ve ever had. And I used to be a foie neophyte, it’s just been a little over a year since I first had foie, but I feel like I’ve gotten a good amount in since that. This was seared foie on a coca of leeks (coca is like very thin, crispy bread) and topped with scallions and salt. Man, this was delicious. When we tried it, we were both like ‘whoa,’ and we dicussed what other foies might top it, or if this could be it. I was trying to remember all the foies I’d had, but it was hard to concentrate on anything else but the plate set before me. So I’ve recently concluded that that was the best. Period. After the foie gras, we got a tiny dish of peas, a langoustine (a big shrimp), and a foam of various spices. Delicious. I have a weak spot for shrimp, and I’ve been to lots of restaurants here that know how to cook them just right, before that point where they get rubbery, so I wonder why not everywhere can do it…it must not be too hard. But Cinc Sentits followed suit and presented us with goodness. Now I’ve never been a huge fish fan, but I continue to be surprised with the preparation at certain places. I guess if you’re willing to pay for it, you can get some quality stuff. So this was a red mullet with a squid ink sauce on a bed of wild rice and an alioli foam. Absolutely great. I’m not so schooled in fish family, and I don’t even know if I’ve had red mullet before, but this was a really nice dish, and I ate every last bite. Then the meat came. This was a quintessentially Spanish dish. Can you guess what it was? If you said pork, you’re right. I think it might have been cochinillo, which means young pig, and it came with an apple sauce and a roasted apple slice. I’ve either been in Spain too long, or else I actually do enjoy pork now, because this was good. I’ve gotten used to the crispy, salty pork dishes here, and the contrast with tender, fatty meat makes for a real party on the tongue. I wasn’t so crazy about the apple sauce, etc., but it didn’t get in the way of my enjoyment of Spain’s pig products. How did I already get at the cheese course? I’m ripping right through this review here, I think it’s because I can’t say much more but ‘good’ and ‘yum.’ So, here’s the cheese. I’m not sure what it’s called but I can find out because the second I tasted it I was almost sure it came from a cheese shop in town that we frequent, owned by a friendly Scottish lady. It was served with a little blob of confit onions, and I guess it’s enough to say that I’ve gotten this cheese from the shop more than once on my own, so you could say I like it. Onto the first dessert. It was pure pinapple. No, they didn’t just serve us diced pineapple, but they might as well have. It was pineapple sorbet, bits of pineapple, and a pineapple sauce. I didn’t like it. I was hoping for something better, it tasted like pure pineapple. So, I got some guts after a bit of coaxing and asked if there was a different dessert they could give me, claiming a dislike for pineapple. I also mentioned if there was nothing else, I would even take another piece of cheese. So I got another piece of cheese. Then the grand finale: thank god there was chocolate involved. I sometimes (always) get a little disappointed when there’s no chocolate to be had. On a tray came floating through the air little cups of chocolate mousse, a scoop of dotted vanilla bean ice cream, in a ring of salty, olive oil cake crunchies. It sounds very simple, there were no foams of who-knows-what, no sea water gels or anything, but it was definitely the right road to take. You can’t go wrong with a good chocolate mousse and pure vanilla ice cream (which I approve of when accompanied by chocolate) and salty crunchies. I thoroughly enjoyed. And I must make one note here, it’s not a bad or good thing, it just happened: every bite it took with the crunchy cake bits reminded me of a cereal I used to eat as a kid, and I don’t know what it was, but something about it gave me this weird taste of childhood, and I couldn’t pinpoint it. I have been told to mention that this is a reconstruction of a very simple Catalan dish, which includes bread, olive oil, chocolate and salt. It's actually quite delicious, sometimes I like to melt chocolate on some toast, drizzle on some oil and top it off with salt for a different dessert. So this was the Cinc Sentits experience, and we were the last ones in the restaurant, like the first time there. Their service is friendly, and you might get anywhere from 2-4 waiters at different times, which is a lot for the size of the restaurant; and they all say bye with a smile as they leave the restaurant (I guess this goes along with being the last ones there, even later than the waitstaff). Before leaving, we talked a bit to the chef’s mother who also works there. And when we went back this week for lunch, they remembered us. Side note: this is not typical Catalan behavior, but remember, they lived out of the country for a long time. So we like Cinc Sentits. We like the food, and the people, and it's good to go to a place where people not only give you good service, but ask where you're from. And where if you get some rare pineapple dessert, you can ask to change it for something else. Looking back now, I wish I had just gotten two of the chocolates...

Thursday, July 3, 2008

What to do with Dried Shrimp

I think I must like them so much because essentially they’re Chinese pasta. Little bits of ravioli with a Chinese flare. Alright, I know it’s not that simple, but I do love dumplings. They’ve always been in that sort of ‘only-when-I-go-out-to-eat’ category; this is where they’re different than pasta. I can’t just make them at home…or can I?

You probably guessed that the answer is yes, I can. And you want to know how I came up with the idea to make them? Normally if I have a craving for dumplings, I go down the road to a handy Japanese place where there’s a whole section dedicated to steamed goods, but honestly, it’s the pan-fried dumplings that get me. I’m devoted to the standard, half-moon shaped goodies. So my idea did not stem from a craving. Instead, I still had dried shrimp leftover from making pad thai and it was just sitting in the back of my fridge, not doing anything but perhaps leaking a faint fishy smell. So onto my old standby, search for dried shrimp and dumplings pops up. I just wanted to glance at the recipe to see how intimidating it would be, but it got lots of good reviews and didn’t look too bad. I also think I have this unexplained prejudice against won-ton wrappers and pre-made store bought doughs, but this recipe called for you to mix together your own flour and water and that’s it. Very easy.

One thing I was lacking, though, was a steamer. I always eye the bamboo steamers in the Chinese shop, and think how I want one, but I’d only actually use it for tamales. So I went with the pan-frying method, which ended up being pretty much steamed except for a little crispy bit on the bottom. These turned out delicious and I would make them again, trying different fillings and sauces.

And a little side note: although I made these almost specifically because I had dried shrimp, I don’t think that’s an essential ingredient, and if you don’t have or can’t find, make them anyways.




Pork and Spring Onion Dumplings
Adapted from epicurious.com

dough
2 c flour
1 c boiling water
salt

filling
2 tsp dried shrimp
2 tsp Chinese rice wine, or medium-dry Sherry (I used Sherry, I mean, I’m in Spain)
¼ medium head of cabbage, roughly chopped
½ tsp salt
1 lb ground pork (I bought a package of pork sausages and just removed the casing)
3 green onions, green part only, chopped
1 clove garlic, chopped
1/8 tsp fresh ginger, finely grated
3 Tbsp soy sauce
1 Tbsp oyster sauce (I didn’t have any so used fish sauce)
½ tsp sesame oil
1 egg, beaten
¼ tsp ground black pepper

dipping sauce
soy sauce
fish sauce
lime juice
green onion
fresh chilies

For the dough, mix the flour, water, and salt in a bowl. Mix with a wooden spoon until the dough forms a ball, then knead on a floured surface until smooth and shiny, 6-8 minutes. Wrap in plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature for 20 minutes.
While that’s resting, you can make the filling. What epicurious doesn’t mention is that for dried shrimp, you need to soak them for about 30 minutes in water until they get soft, then pat them dry and mince them up into tiny bits. You don’t really want to get a whole hunk of dried shrimp in a bite, just the flavor. So when everything for the filling is chopped and grated, mix it all together by hand until evenly distributed. Put in the fridge until you’re ready to fill the dumplings.
Now it’s time to make the wrappers. Epicurious suggest a gnocchi method: divide the dough into three, roll each piece into a log, and then cut of 1-inch sections and roll those into a flat circle for each dumpling. I tried this and found that I had irregular shaped circles and it didn’t work so well. So then I tried rolling it out, like normal pastry, but very thin, then I took a large glass and traced the edge, so all my circles were uniform. And after you trace each individual wrapper, I would stretch it out a bit, to make it even thinner, and it’s pretty elasticky dough so it should be ok. When you have all your wrappers ready, get a glass with water and dip your finger in it and trace the edge of the circle. You’ll see that if you put too much water it won’t close together, so just a quick brush on each half of the circle will do it. Then in the middle place a little scoop of the filling and close it to make a half circle, pressing along the edges to seal. Now, if you’re feeling creative, you can kind of pleat the edges over themselves and make little folds (epicurious tries to explain the method, but I thought it was confusing, and it’s just better to experiment a little with a few, folding the dough around and stuff). Now you’re ready to cook them. The key here is non-stick pan. I didn’t have one big enough because you’re going to need to fill it with water, and I only had a very shallow non-stick, so I used regular, which resulted in lots of the bottoms of dumplings being stuck to the pan. Sad smiley. Anyways, in a non-stick pan, heat up some oil until warm over medium-high heat. Add the dumplings, as many as will fit in the pan without touching and fry for a minute or two so that the bottoms get crispy and golden. Then pour cold water in to come half-way up the sides of the dumplings. Cover them and cook until the liquid is mostly evaporated, steaming the dumplings (probably 8-10 minutes). Remove with a spatula (you might want to test one first to make sure they’re done), I put on a plate with a paper towel just to get the excess water, and then serve and eat with the dumpling sauce.
Oh yeah, the sauce. I didn’t really mention how to make that, but instead listed ingredients. Dipping sauces are up to you, if you want spicy, throw in lots of fresh chili, if you like strictly soy sauce, go ahead. Those are just the ingredients I like to use in mine, so you can pick and choose as you please.