Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Bar Mut

I’m getting very nostalgic and a bit sad too. I’m writing this from San Francisco (Yay! New city! New tastes and food to discover! New things to post about!) but I haven’t done that yet, as I’ve just recently arrived. What I have done is looked at In Praise of Sardine’s pictures of Barcelona and remembered all the food I left behind. Of course I miss my friends there, but the food. The food. So, soon enough there will be a new little section on the right hand column of the Dough Ball for San Francisco restaurants, but right now I have another addition to the Barcelona discoveries.

It took us a while to get into this place, if you try and go on any night, it’s packed, and it’s a small place, but doesn’t feel cramped, with the floor to ceiling windows that open up to busy Diagonal (a street that cuts across the city, for all you non-Barcelonans). You have a few options of seating arrangements: marble (or is it granite?) counter tops that wrap around the bar, or big, rotund dark wooden barrels that often serve as the tables in so many establishments in that city. On one wall wines with old tags around their bottle necks are encased in glass. The menu is displayed on a couple chalkboards hanging around the bar. Not too long, but there are sure to be plenty of things you’ll want. So we did finally get in one night, and kept going back. They even have a killer breakfast, which I made sure to have a few days before departing. Oh, did I forget to say what it’s called? Bar Mut, for those who don’t know it. I guess it’s a play on the Spanish for vermouth, vermút, because both are pronounced similarly (mut=moot).

Bar Mut is not a cheap place, but the quality is well worth the price. There’s so much more to be had than the few pictures I have here, and I only wish I had taken pictures of that breakfast (I’m sure it included a glass of cava or two, eggs, perhaps xistorra, beans stewed in pig fat, and all simply but beautifully presented). For dinner, I went with esqueixada to start. Esqueixada is a ‘salad’ of bacalao (salt cod), tomatoes, olives, and onions, all bathed in olive oil.

It’s very Catalan. I don’t normally gravitate towards a fish salad (in my mind, a salad should have greens in it), but consider it a take on tuna salad. It’s cold and refreshing, and goes back to a basic pairing of olive oil and salt that plays well off each other. I’ve had it at a variety of restaurants, and wanted to see how they did it up at Bar Mut. They served it as a timbale (a built-up cylinder), and they had a sort of tomato puree on the bottom, followed by bacalao, and then some tomatoes and sundried tomatoes. Bar Mut read my mind and surrounded it with greens and a little olive tapenade. Good stuff.
For some reason, I insisted on foie gras. I think I was still in my phase where I had to order it every time I went out if it was on the menu. Not only did I order foie gras, I ordered it with two fried eggs. Talk about greasy and heavy. I used to subsist off bread and pasta, but with food like this, you can’t fill up on bread and not order the plate of foie and eggs. What can I say? It was seared foie and eggs, and I smeared some on bread and I would do it over and over again, whenever I do go back to Bar Mut.
The next dish is not my doing, and I can’t remember what it was…but I’m sure it was enjoyed.
Then came some steak, mushrooms, and potatoes. Delicious mushrooms, tasty, tender beef…I’m looking at the picture now and wondering if it might be beef cheeks? I was a big fan of those in Spain. They fell apart with a fork like brisket, and always were dripping with a rich brown gravy. Not a complaint here.

That ends our brief reflection on Bar Mut’s food, I’ll see what I can do about getting more photos (and food) but I think sooner than that yall will be reading about what San Francisco has to offer. I think it’s promising.
I will leave you with one final picture of, let’s call it, ‘atmosphere’. I still don’t know what those little spray bottles are, the ones with a green mesh covering, that appear in restaurants every now and then. I will say that they are dangerous. If you do decide to spray them, make sure and aim for your dining partner, rather than the person at the table next to you. You can barely catch a glimpse in the top right corner of the chalkboard menu, items written in curly letters. And a simple flower in a label-less wine bottle.

Thursday, January 8, 2009

Pizza Party

I have a little annual Christmas party I like to throw at my house, and I always try and come up with a theme. We’ve done the usual Tacky Sweater party, and then I tried a bitch’n’swap (google it if you’re unfamiliar). I’ve even considered having my friends come dressed as members from the first Christmas, you know, some Wise Women, and a donkey or two. That one has yet to happen.

This year I waited until the last second and a stroke of genius hit me: pizza party. Not greasy, orangey Domino’s (I do love that every once in a while), but some homemade dough, with white mozzarella and fragrant basil. And the best part is, it involves people. I would make the food and prepare the toppings, but they get to put together their own pizzas. Brilliant. If you get your oven hot enough, and if you have a pizza stone, you’re in a good position to make some stellar pizza. I was surprised at how good ours turned out. I turned to Jamie and Martha. We’re all on a first name basis (Oliver and Stewart, that is). For the tomato sauce, all you really need is canned tomatoes. I kind of melded together their two recipes to come up with mine. The toppings are the best part, because you can throw on whatever (I’m not a pizza nazi, although I stick to standard ingredients, I’ll allow you to put barbequed chicken on your pizza, as much as it grosses me out). And one more thing I must say, that I can’t avoid thinking about as I type out “pizza dough.” A shout out to the Iron Chef where the secret ingredient was pizza dough. That chairman is unbeatable in his enthusiasm and precise movements.



Pizza Dough
From Jamie’s Italy (you’ll see, as I would never call something ‘stodgy porridge’)
6-8 medium size thin pizzas


1 ¾ lb strong white bread flour (if my math's right, just over 793 grams, which is about 6 1/3 c)
1 ½ c fine ground semolina flour or strong white bread flour
1 Tbsp fine sea salt
¼ oz. envelope active dried yeast
1 Tbsp sugar
Just over 2 c warm water

Pile the flours and salt onto a clean surface and make a 7-inch well in the center. Add your yeast and sugar to the warm water, mix up with a fork and leave for a few minutes, then pour into the well. Using a fork and a circular movement, slowly bring in the flour from the inner edge of the well and mix into the water. It will look like stodgy porridge—continue to mix, bringing in all the flour. When the dough comes together and becomes too hard to mix with your fork, flour your hands and begin to pat it into a ball. Knead the dough by rolling it backward and forward, using your left hand to stretch the dough toward you and your right hand to push the dough away from you at the same time. Repeat this for 10 minutes, until you have a smooth, springy, soft dough.
This is where I divert from Jamie and follow Martha a bit. She lets it rise a lot more (two proofings of 40 minutes each, punching down in between). And Jamie just says to let it rest 15 minutes. So I found that you can do what you want with it and let it rise up to a few hours, if you punch it down once or twice in between. Make sure and oil the top of the dough and a bowl to let it rest in, then cover with plastic wrap, but not too tight, and then with a cloth over the bowl, trying to keep in a warmish place.
This was a good thing for me to prepare for a dinner party because I could have most things set up before hand. I divided the dough into 7 balls and rolled each one out, stacking them between layers of parchment paper until time to assemble.

Tomato Sauce

¼ c olive oil
2 cans (28 oz) whole peeled tomatoes
1 ½ tsp dried oregano
1 clove garlic, peeled and sliced
Salt and pepper

Heat a heavy saucepan over medium and all the olive oil. Then add the garlic, letting it fry but not turn dark brown or crispy. Add the oregano, tomatoes, salt and pepper. Turn down the heat and let cook for about 40 minutes, until the tomatoes get soft. Crush them with a wooden spoon as it cooks. Set aside.

The beauty is the easy prep. You can get everything ready before and just have it all laid out for your guests, whom I employed to make the pizzas. As far as toppings go, you’ll most certainly want to have fresh mozzarella, freshly grated parmesan, and basil. Those are the bare minimum, so I also had: ricotta, roasted garlic, salami, black olives, and grilled mushrooms and eggplant. It’s a lot of fun with everyone getting to create their own. So when it comes to cooking, if you have a pizza stone (which we do), all the better. Heat the oven to 500F with the pizza stone in it (if you don’t have a pizza stone, use a baking sheet instead). When it’s heated, remove the stone, take one of your rolled out crusts, placing it on the stone and top as desired. Typically we did tomato sauce followed by mozzarella and parmesan, then whatever else, but there was also a pizza Bianca in there (sans sauce). Pop in the oven for 8-12 minutes until cheese is bubbling and browning, and then slide it off onto a baking sheet to cool and cut, while you prepare another. Enjoy!

Monday, December 22, 2008

Toffifee

Every year for Christmas we get a box of toffee in the mail. It’s actually sent by someone, it doesn’t just randomly come, don’t worry. In spite of this annual happening, toffee has never meant Christmas for me. I’ve never been too crazy about it either. But let me let you in on a secret: it’s delicious. Really delicious. I mean the two main ingredients are butter and sugar, so although it’s stored in the freezer, it melts in your mouth. And it’s topped with chocolate for good measure. There’s not much to not like, and I wonder why I’m only now getting hooked.

My mom has always loved it, and I guess the mail was running slow this year, so I decided to make her some. I guess part of the reason I had shied away from it is because it required a candy thermometer. Just seeing that word in recipes means that there’s going to need to be a lot of whisking involved and extreme focus, not a degree overcooked. That’s slightly intimidating. Something I learned after making this recipe was candy thermometers are great. There’s no guess work. You won’t take the cake out of the oven underdone. It tells you exactly when it’s done. You do have to stir like crazy, but that just gives you a little more muscle.

I found a recipe that got really good reviews so I gave it a try, but just a half batch incase something went awry. It didn’t. Actually it turned out great, so great I made another full batch a few days later. The first time I only used almonds, and the second time I used almonds and pistachios, although you couldn’t really notice the pistachios, they always add a striking color. My one complaint and I’m still not sure the explanation for this is that the second time I made it, upon breaking the toffee into pieces, the chocolate layer on top wouldn’t stick, so I would in effect break off a piece of toffee and break it from chocolate. To get the full effect, you’d have to take a piece of chocolate and hold it on top of the bottom layer to enjoy your toffee. I had no problems with this the first time, I’m wondering if I spread the chocolate on too thick. I guess I’ll have to wait and try again, with a little less chocolate. I think you could also make this with any kind of nut, but almonds worked perfectly.

And one last thing, after spreading the chocolate on, I had some ground almond praline I had made that I sprinkled on top, for appearance’s sake of course.


Almond and Pistachio Toffee
from epicurious.com

1 c chopped almonds, skins on and toasted
1 c chopped pistachios, toasted
1 lb. (4 sticks) unsalted butter
2 c sugar
2 Tb water
pinch of salt
7-8 oz bittersweet chocolate, chopped or chips

Butter a baking sheet and set aside. In a large sauce pan over medium high heat, stir together the butter, sugar, water and salt. Until everything is melted together, you don’t need to keep your eye on it at all times, but once it does, get ready to whisk. Get out your candy thermometer and whisk together constantly until it reaches 300F. This actually takes a long time, you’ll watch the color change to a dark camel, but you don’t want it to burn to the bottom so you need to stir continually. When it does reach 300F, take off the heat and stir in the nuts, then pour immediately into the buttered baking sheet. Once it’s spread out, pour the chocolate over it, and after a minute or two it should start melting. Take a spatula and spread the chocolate to cover every bit of toffee. If you do have bits of praline (recipe follows), you can sprinkle that on. Put in the freezer and let harden for at least 30 minutes before eating, then store in the freezer.

Almond Praline

1 ½ c sugar
1 c almond

Grease a baking pan, or line with foil. In a small saucepan, heat sugar on medium heat and stir until melted. Add almonds and continue to cook, without stirring but swirling instead, until the sugar is deep golden. Pour into the pan, let cool and then pulse in a food processor until in a fine powder. Store in an airtight container.

Sunday, December 7, 2008

New York

New York is an obvious and inevitable choice for anyone’s list of favorite cities to eat in. It should have been in mine before Rome or Sevilla or any of those, but proximity from Barcelona gave way to European cities. I’ve been to New York more times than I can count on two hands, probably because my sister lived there for the past five years. But on this most recent trip, I visited some pretty touristy restaurants that I had never been to before, because there are some you need to check off your list at some point. I have some favorites, that I always try and go back to when I’m in Manhattan, but it’s always a toss up when you want to try new places, given that there are about a jillion restaurants on the island. And as it was a family trip, there had to be the requisite ‘nice’ restaurant. Nice translating to upscale, expensive, press-worthy. I’ll save this one for the last because there are many pictures but not much description (explained later).

In the months before going, I had seen a show on the Travel Channel where they talk about the Brooklyn Ballpark food. First I must tell you, I was staying in Brooklyn, and second, I try never to eat Mexican food outside of Texas or Mexico. So I heard about this very authentic Latin food provided by people who come to watch the soccer games on Saturdays and prepare food from their native countries, be it El Salvador or Peru. I was willing to try, and wanted to, since it wasn't strictly Mexican, but many other cuisines I hadn't tried. As I researched more and read more articles, I found that they were almost not allowed to come back by the Health Department and had to undergo changes to abide by the guidelines and codes. I’ve heard that this has dwindled the vendors' numbers and the crowds of hungry people, but I still wanted to see what the fuss was about. So one Saturday morning, pre-matinee theater, I went down with my sister and it was not nearly as crowded as I had imagined. A few trailers parked along the block, with posters outside each advertising their food. I went for a pupusa, a Salvadorian dish. I had never had one, and wanted to try it.

It’s like thick corn cake stuffed with cheese and meat (mine was pork) and served with pickled cabbage. It was good and greasy, but mostly corn cake and I prefer mine to be heavier on the stuffing and lighter on the tortilla-bit. We got a huarache, a large Mexican burrito, that strangely enough you don’t see in Austin. Also got an order of chicharrones, or fried pork with the bone on. These are always delicious but very fatty, and only advised for those who don’t mind biting it off the bone and getting their fingers a little messy. For dessert? Mango with lime juice and chili powder. Would’ve been great if the mango was a little riper, but they had all kinds of fresh juices, which I like to see. My sister’s dessert was corn on the cob slathered in mayonnaise. I have it pictured here, and from that you’ll get as much as I did because I can’t stand mayonnaise, so do what you will with it. The down side of going out here is it’s kinda out in the middle of nowhere Brooklyn, and if you go, you’re going for the food because there’s not much else around.

I hope I don’t loose all credibility here as someone who likes to delve into something different (because I do) but I’ve got to get my cupcake fix when in New York. And I’m not talking about Magnolia, although this is comparable. Actually, Billy used to work at Magnolia, and that’s where this Chelsea bakery gets its namesake: Billy’s. Something about the buttercream is magical, I can’t recreate it at home even with all the cookbooks. It’s not too sugary, doesn’t taste like butter, but is a perfect compliment to the small cupcake. And it looks so much cuter in those pastel Easter-egg colors. I am a chocolate lover hands down, but I can’t peel myself away from the white cupcake with vanilla buttercream. That will make you smile.

The last time I was in New York my sister and I were debating between Blue Hill and Gramercy Tavern. We went with Blue Hill. If you haven’t heard of it, google it and no doubt you’ll find plenty of reading material. This time, I wanted to try Gramercy Tavern. There are two rooms, one is the dining room and you get a choice of tasting menues, and the other is off the tavern room which is more casual and from an a la carte menu; my family did this for our last night. To sum it up before I tell you what we had, the space was warm and classic, it was busy enough to have a nice low buzz on a Sunday night but not too loud. The upper walls were painted with bright images of fruit and vegetables, somewhat abstract. It was very comfortable while still fancy. None of us were very hungry, which worked out fine since we weren’t doing the tasting menu. I had Jerusalem artichoke soup, which was just enough for me (I would show you, but it did not photograph well, as it was a light yellow/cream color served in a white bowl).My sister had a beet salad with mixed greens, Grana Padano and lemon vinaigrette, and my mom had some sort of fish (I do love online menus, but I can't find a dish that resembles hers on the menus) with corn. Everyone liked what they got, but the real kicker was the dessert. We all split this chocolate pudding with salted caramel, vanilla bean whipped cream, and brioche croutons. It slightly reminded me of a dish I learned about in Spain that was a simple bread with chocolate, olive oil, and salt. This was delicious, especially with the salted caramel. It was simple but nicely presented.

Here comes the quintessential tourist destination part of my latest New York trip: Katz’s. I had actually made it inside the building on a different visit, but a slight disagreement prevented us from eating there, but that’s all in the past. The point of Katz’s is the sandwiches are huge, packed full of meat. Not as high as some of the deli’s in New York, but it’s not a slice or two of turkey. It’s your corned beef or pastrami or brisket (although to me, this is pure Texas barbeque), rye, side of pickles. It’s a weird process at Katz’s; you walk in and they give each customer and ticket that you have to return when you leave, whether you buy something or not, and if you lose it, it’s $50. It has nothing to do with line order, so go ahead to the shortest one. And if you tip or they’re nice, you’ll get a helper that gives you a little sample of some juicy meat. They also have all sorts of other Jewish food, matzah ball soup, knishes (I don’t really know my Jewish food, unfortunately). We stuck to a Reuben with housemade Thousand Island dressing and cheese, but instead of corned beef, pastrami. Although there’s no shortage of meat and it’s delicious, the sandwich depends on the dressing which adds so much flavor, without which you’d have a big hunk of meat and some bread. Be sure and get extra dressing, because it brings everything together and it really does make it live up to the New York deli experience. Lastly I have our meal that I insisted on, after having eaten the best of Spain at Mugaritz, I wanted to see what New York had to offer because I had yet to try a tasting menu in the States. After researching and already having some restaurants knocked off the list (my family had already been to a few like Le Bernardin), I decided on Jean Georges. I put on my pretty shoes and shiny dress and into the cab we hopped for our night on the town. Luckily, they had a couple different tasting menus, one of Jean Georges specialties, or what he’s known for, and the other of seasonal dishes that change. So with four people, we did half and half. There was wine involved, and I always intend to leave with a copy of the menu, but in a haze of lobster, chocolate, legs, and eggs, it must have slipped my mind. But I think I might’ve gotten lucky because on their website they have both the menus of Jean Georges signature dishes and the autumn menu, so I’m taking their word for it and gonna give you the photos and the accompanying menu. I’ll make my opinions known now: if you have the money and are up for a lot of food, try Jean Georges. I can’t compare it to other New York fine-dining, but we were impressed with all kind of tasty, well-thought out dishes, and not overly-bothered by the waiters. There was a plethora of food, so go hungry, and if nothing else, it was an experience. We all got an amuse bouche. And now I'll start the Autumn Menu:Egg Toast, Caviar and Dill. Kanpachi Sashimi, Sherry Vinaigrette and Toasted Pecans. Nishiki Risotto with Porcini Marmelade and Five Herbs. Crispy Black Bass, Roasted Brussel Sprouts and Spiced Apple Jus. Maine Lobster and Potato Gnocchi, Smoked Butter and Pickled Chilies. Roasted Venison, Quince-Madeira Condiment, Broccoli Raab and Cabrales Foam (although looking at the picture now, the broccoli raab and cabrales foam seem to be noticeably absent. I'm not sure what the substitute was). Signature Dish Menu. Egg Caviar. Sea Scallops, Caramelized Cauliflower, Caper-Raisin Emulsion. Young Garlic Soup with Thyme, Sauteed Frog Legs. Turbot with Chateau Chalon Sauce. Lobster Tartine, Lemongrass and Fenugreek Broth, Pea Shoots. Broiled Squab, Onion Compote, Corn Pancake with Foie Gras. I will add that the desserts were themed, for example you could pick caramel, or chocolate, or bread or some flavor or ingredient and you would get a large platter divided, with four desserts all a different take on the theme. I got chocolate, and this included: Jean Georges Chocolate Cake, Vanilla Bean Ice Cream. Aerated Chocolate Sponge, Gooseberries, Whiskey, Walnuts. Warm Chocolate Gnocchi, Grapefruit, Gianduja, Basil. Old Fashioned Chocolate Egg Cream. We also got caramel. Vanilla Soda, Liquid Caramel Sphere. Chocolate Pop, Coffee-Cardamom Ice Cream. Caramel Curd, Dehydrated Sponge, Roasted Pineapple Sorbet. Warm Caramel Tart, Crispy Olive-Hazelnut Praline, Caramelized Bacon.Lastly came the petit fours, and then we were sent home with a little bag of chocolate truffles.

I don’t think I need to draw any conclusions on eating in New York. It should be done, more than once. But if you only get once, choose wisely and do your research because who knows how many restaurants are jam packed into that tiny island.

I do need to put in my two cents on restaurants that I didn't get the chance to eat at this time, but I love and am looking forward to my return. The first is Fatty Crab, a tiny, heaving Malaysian restaurant in the West Village. It's a tiny space full of people enjoying pork belly sandwiches or waiting to enjoy them, and you want to be a part of it.

There's also a cute little place on the Upper West Side, and once again, I don't want to lose my credibility as a go-to for suggestions, but this place was featured in a film whose name will remain annonymous. Anyways, they utilize every inch of space inside Cafe Lalo, even having to move the surrounding tables to get guests into their seats. But they've got glass cases packed full of desserts, and a menu reveals even more that you can't see, as well as savory food and sweet drinks (I'm remembering hot chocolates involving liqueurs). Great place to meet on a cold night for a big piece of cake.

Also try and stop by Chelsea Market. It's an indoor market of different specialty shops, including a bakery, soup store, produce shop, Italian market, wine store, and more. You can get yourself a Fat Witch brownie or sit down to lunch.

Monday, November 17, 2008

Savory Tart

This is one of the best savory tarts ever. It’s got goat cheese, mushrooms, leeks, and garlic, which are all ingredients for goodness. This is actually a combination of two tarts I found from epicurious.com because I couldn’t decide between the two and knew I wanted goat cheese and mushrooms. The leeks were actually an afterthought, and the one I have pictured here was made with green onions because leeks were unavailable. I think this tart is tasty comfort food for the fall or winter, but also works anytime of year. Not much else to say, make it now and you’ll see what I’m talking about.



Goat Cheese, Mushroom, and Leek Tart

crust
1 ½ c flour
¼ tsp salt
¾ (1 ½ sticks) chilled unsalted butter
¼ c ice water

filling
1 ½ c whipping cream
5 large garlic cloves, peeled
1 large egg
¼ tsp salt

1 Tbsp olive oil
8 oz button mushrooms
2-3 leeks (can substitute 6-8 green onions)

4 oz soft fresh goat cheese, room temperature

To make the crust, blend flour and salt, then add butter and with a pastry cutter mix until in crumbs. Add ice water, and mix with a fork or your hands until clumps form. Gather dough into a ball, flatten into a disk and wrap in plastic, then chill for 30 minutes.
Preheat oven to 375 F. Roll out dough on a floured surface into a large circle, then press into a 9-inch tart pan. Trim off excess dough. Line crust with foil and fill with beans or coins or some sort of pie weights. Bake until sides are set, about 20 minutes. Remove foil and beans, then bake until golden, about 15 minutes. Cool, but leave the oven on.
Now for the filling, bring the cream and garlic to boil in a heavy medium saucepan. Watch carefully: remember when cream boils it bubbles and will boil over. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until it’s reduced to about 1 cup, whisking occasionally, for about 15 minutes. Cool and puree in a processor. Then blend in egg and salt.
While you’re letting the cream cool, you can prepare the mushrooms and leeks. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat oil. Add leeks and let soften for about 8-10 minutes, then add the mushrooms and continue to sauté until soft, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.
Put the tart pan on a baking sheet in case cream spills over. Finally, spread goat cheese over the bottom of the crust. Spoon mushrooms and leeks over, then pour the cream filling on top of everything. Bake until the filling is set, about 20 minutes. Serve warm.

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Sicilian Cannoli (is there any other kind?)

Ok, it's about time for another recipe. Something happens when you don't have a job. You (or at least I) would think that you'd have a lot more time for other stuff, like posting on your foodblog, but I've found that along with the laziness that not working provides, there's also a loss of motivation. I keep waiting until I start working, figure things out, get back into a routine and start cooking regular meals, rather than eating whatever I want, whenever I want, to start back into my routine of writing recipes and posting. This is just another negative effect of the economy. Boooo bad economy.

Despite my slump, I have cooked a thing or two, so I'll start with one that I had been wanting to make for a while. It may or may not have something to do with my strong fascination with Sicily, although I've never been. I had a trip planned about half a year ago and was thwarted by someone else. I'm sure I'll make it there someday, but in the meantime, I decided to try cannoli. I could say cannolis, but if you speak Italian, you'd know that wasn't technically correct. One thing I will say up front is that I'm not a huge fan of them or anything, but I like trying new things. And who knows, maybe the homemade ones would turn out 100 times better than any store bought ones I'd ever had. Which is another point. In the south, we don't eat cannoli so much. We got more pies here. So I’m not so familiar with them either. What I do know is I absolutely hate the ones with those little gummied fruit things in the ricotta. Hate it. Which is an advantage to making my own, I could alter the recipe as I saw fit. I googled around and found 2 recipes I liked. Then went and bought the cannoli rings after much deliberation. Seriously, you'd think there'd be something lying around the house that you could wrap some cannoli dough around and fry it, to avoid having to buy rings which can only be used for cannoli. But you'd be wrong. On the back of the cannoli ring package, they also give you a recipe, so I came up with my own tailored version between the three.

Oh, and I think the important part is the dough. Mine came out tasting good, because there was cinnamon in it, but it was so elasticy that after frying it was a bit thick and I wish I had rolled it thinner (although I tried and sometimes it would break and a hole would form), and then it would make for crispier cannoli shells. Better luck next time. The filling is the easy part, and I didn't measure, just taste-tested my ricotta, powdered sugar, orange zest, and vanilla mixture. And one last thing: there's no point denying the fact I'm a chocolate addict, but I do occasionally branch out to other sweets (I love cheesecake, crème brulee, that kind of stuff) but the best bite of cannoli was the very edge that I had dipped in chocolate, and I kind of wished I could dip the whole shell in it. Might have to experiment with that next time too.


Cannoli

2 c flour
1 tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp salt
1 tsp cocoa powder
1/8 tsp baking soda
1 Tbsp sugar
2 Tbsp shortening
2 Tbsp sweet Marsala wine
1 egg, separated

ricotta
powdered sugar
grated orange zest
vanilla extract

finely chopped pistachios

melted chocolate (at least 60%)

oil for frying

Mix together all dry ingredients in a bowl, then add shortening and using a pastry cutter, fork, or your fingers, blend until in crumbs. Add the wine and the egg yolk and mix until a dough forms. Turn it onto a floured surface and knead until smooth, about 5-7 minutes. Cover in plastic wrap and let stand for one hour at room temperature.
In a deep fryer, heat oil. On a floured surface, pinch off rounds of the dough and with a rolling pin, roll out into a five inch diameter round, making it as thin as you can. Wrap around the cannoli ring (unless you were lucky enough to find some other household object that would serve), brushing the egg white on the seam to close. What I found was that if you brush it all over and fry it, the shell comes back looking very crispy, with thin bubbles on it. Experiment and see which way you like better, but I think it’s necessary just to seal it at least. Drop the ring into the hot oil, and get a plate with paper towels ready. I think it took 1-2 minutes to fry, until it got deep brown, so when it’s done using tongs remove from oil. Try and slip the shells off the ring soon after they get out of the oil, using a hot pad to hold the metal. Keep pinching off and rolling dough until all the cannoli are done.
When they’re nice and cool, melt the chocolate in a bowl and dip the shell edges in the chocolate. Line on a sheet of parchment and let chocolate set. Mix together ricotta, powdered sugar, orange zest, and a touch of vanilla extract to your liking. You’ll probably need to pipe this into the shells, otherwise it could get messy trying to fill them. So get your pastry bag and when the chocolate’s dry, fill your cannoli shell. The final step is to dip the ricotta edges in the pistachio pieces and then you’re ready to eat. Mangia!

Monday, October 13, 2008

Terrabacus

They say you don’t know what you have until it’s gone. Not always true. I knew what I had when I had Terrabacus, and now it’s gone, and I’m even more sad. Technically, it’s not gone. I’m sure it’s still right there on Muntaner by Diagonal, but for me, far away in Austin, it’s gone.

From the outside, I thought it was a wine store/wine bar. This is not completely untrue. It’s got smart, frosted glass sliding doors. On the inside, it’s all black and red, with leather bar stools and tall tables. There’s a small wine cellar that doesn’t even scratch at the surface of the wine list (one of those booklets that rotates on one binding, more like an elongated set of cards, comprised of many, many decks). Frankly, it’s too overwhelming for me to look at, I’ve often let others make the wine decisions for me.

When it comes to the food though, I know what I want. They do the ever-popular menú del día, but I think the best part is their a la carte menu because it’s another one of those miniature-dish places (think San Sebastian) where you can try a variety of foods, and find something to please everyone at the table.

I’ve been there many times over, enough to try most things on the menu, and I have a couple favorites. I remember the first time I went, I was impressed before our plates even arrived. First they brought out a modern square plate with sliced bread and a little tumbler of olive oil dotted with pink peppercorns. Completely divine. I had never given pink peppercorns a second thought, and here they were, releasing a little bit of sweetness with every bite of bread and oil. It’s little details like that that set Terrabacus apart. Well, that and the waitstaff. Living in Barcelona, you don’t come to expect service as a standout at eating and drinking establishments. You more get the feeling they’re looking at you going, “what are you doing here?” This is not the case at Terrabacus, and it could be attributed to my frequent visits, but I’m willing to take it either way. We became friends with a few waiters in particular, who always spent a little extra time talking to us, seeing how things were going, discussing food. What really convinced me that they paid more attention than your average bear was when I was walking down a busy Barcelona street and a man smiled, waved enthusiastically and said hi to me. I turned my head, confused, and then realized it was my waiter, and he was acknowledging me outside the restaurant. In other places, you barely get that inside a restaurant.

And to accompany the friendly faces, there’s the food. There are many dishes that we’ve gotten since the first time and haven’t skipped a beat since. The first is a martini glass of raw tuna, avocado, black sesame, and topped off with a bunch of sprouts. Tuna and avocado, not a new combination, but a winner. And you feel good after you eat it, nothing too heavy—that’s for the next plate.Little rolls of bacon and cheese. The bacon’s crispy and fatty (naturally) and the cheese oozes as you bite into it. Once again, this one’s not rocket science, but there’s a reason people keep ordering it. And although these some of their dishes might not be new, it’s the presentation that gives it personality, and the little dabs of sauces, some sweet and mango based, some vinegar and sour, all coming together in the end. The reason I don’t call these tapas is because they’re not typical tortilla de patatas or jamon or something like that. It’s all real food, just in miniature. So instead of getting a big bowl of pasta and being done with the night, you get a little plate of four purses of pear filled pasta in a creamy goat cheese sauce, plus all the other little plates you want. These purses are reminiscent of I Quattro Leoni in Florence, who has a very similar, equally as rich pasta. These have been a staple since the first trip to Terrabacus. So after you have your little dish of pasta, you then get a little plate of my favorite salad of life. And I’m not faking it saying “I love salad” because you’re supposed to because they’re good for you. This really is the best salad there is. There’s foie in it. And carpaccio. And little crunchy bits of puffed rice. And of course greens. Yall, it don’t get any better than that. If this is being healthy, I’m all for it. And because you’re so healthy with your salads and smaller-than-normal rations, you might then get a dish of a late-discovered gem: won-ton pasta ravioli, stuffed with mushrooms and served in sauce of foie and truffle oil. You’re probably getting a heart attack just reading this, but there are only three little ravioli, and don’t be turned off but the ‘won-ton’ description. I think that was my problem and the reason for the delayed ordering, which was a mistake. I was picturing something like a mixture between an egg-roll and ravioli, or some sort of deep-fried pasta concoction, which this was not. Instead, it was rich, decadent, amazing pasta. Then, you might get a surprise from the kitchen (if you’re as friendly with the staff as we are). I can’t take credit for this one, but one of my friends had talked to them on a prior visit, urging them to make their own take on patatas bravas (inspired by Taverna’s originality), and on this next visit as we were dining together, we were presented with a martini glass containing a potato puree, layered with a spicy mayonnaise, orangey in color, and sprinkled with a few cubes of fried potato. Ah the perks of being in good with the ones who count. I think we were sort of taste-testers, and I’m wondering if they’ve since put it on the menu. There are plenty more tiny delights at Terrabacus, but I’m going to move onto desserts, because they deserver a bit of space too. They have a chocolate coulant, which, unless you cook it too long, is at the top of my list. And they don’t cook it too long here. It’s cakey on the outside and runny batter on the inside. It pairs nicely with a glass of Pedro Ximenez, or another dessert wine offered on the menu. One dessert that really surprised me was Kingston cocoa ice cream with confit of orange. I didn’t order it, but tried someone else’s and it was really intense chocolate. I wasn’t expecting that, but I really liked it. I normally reserve my ice cream for my few choice gelaterias, but this was delicious, as rich as a truffle. The pink peppercorns made a tiny appearance in this dessert too. If you get a menú del día, there’s the option of cheese for dessert. And after having been in Spain, and now back in America, you really appreciate the Europeans for their cheese. Like I said, I knew what I had, and now I don’t have it (although I can get some of that cheese here, but not all, and definitely not Terrabacus).