Monday, June 14, 2010
Sevilla: Round Two
Thursday, April 15, 2010
Chocolate Babka and blogger bleh
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
Kaeng Keao Wan Kung
And I’m back. I never left, but got lazy, fashion week(s) happened, weather in Barcelona has been conducive to sitting around, and doing nothing, wanting to blame the government or something. I still need to write that letter, as today, mid-Spring, was in the 50s I think, but I didn’t want to depress myself by actually confirming it.
It has left me a bit of time to cook though, and nice warm and spicy things. Remember that Time Life series of cookbooks from the 70s that I just love? Well I got another one for Christmas and I finally put it to use. And then I made the same thing again because it was that easy and that delicious. This one is Pacific and Southeast Asian Cooking. Honestly, when I got it I was expecting a little less Pacific and a little more Southeast Asian, because there’s almost an abundance of photos of crispy whole pigs with skewered pineapples sticking out of them, (heck, it even gives you a step by step diagram of “Carving a Roast Pig the Island Way”), but I’ve easily found many recipes that I’m ready to try.
I really wanted it for the Southeast Asia stuff, to expand my love of curries from India to other parts, and this book doesn’t fail at showing a different side to food that I pretty much have no idea about. I was happy to discover that there’s a Chinese shop here that has Cloud Ears, which after reading my handy glossary in the recipe booklet, I found out was a type of dried mushroom. That same glossary also taught me about ginger’s cousins, like laos, lengkuas, andkha, but unfortunately I couldn’t find those at the Chinese shop, so ginger had to suffice. And it did.
I chose to make a green curry. I’m mainly attracted to green foods over red, if we’re going to look at the food line like that. A nice green tomatillo salsa over a standard red tomato one? Of course. Basil pesto rather than ragu? Obviously. Green curry and not red? Now you get the hang of it…
I am a shrimp lover, but I almost never order it out here because a)it usually comes whole, meaning shell, head, antennae, everything, and I hate peeling my food while I’m supposed to be eating it, and b) it’s pretty expensive, especially for a coastal city where you think it shouldn’t be that hard to get. But I’ve found a couple seafood stands in the Boqueria Market (if you don’t know what that is, shame on you) that have normal sized shrimp for 10euro/kilo. None of this miniature-lobster like langostinas that I’m not even sure how to prepare and is more than twice the price, but good ole shrimp that I’m used to, and for about 5 euros, I can feed three people with it.
So I pinpointed the Green Shrimp Curry recipe and went to town. The reason it’s so easy is because you make the green curry paste yourself, which keeps in the fridge for at least a month , and then when the time comes to make the curry, you basically throw the paste in a pan with some coconut milk, shrimp, and ginger (or ginger’s cousin). I loved making the paste because I (or my parents) had just bought myself (or me) a new hand-blender with attachments to a mini-food processor and a whisk. Let me tell you, I love that little baby processor, and it’s actually not too small, but not too big, just the right size. Fits in my cabinets and holds the perfect amount of hummus or what have you. And the whisk ain’t bad either, she’s got some kick in her. Back to the curry though.
The worst part of it was deveining all those little shrimp, but as long as I don’t have to dip my hands into my bowl of food at the dinner table, I’m much happier. And, there were leftovers. We also had some corn tortillas and avocados handy, so I decided to be very coastal Mexican and make shrimp tacos. Also delicious.
Kaeng Keao Wan Kung (Thai)
Green Shrimp Curry
adapted from Pacific and Southeast Asian Cooking (I changed things like making your own coconut milk. You can thank me now)
Serves 4-6
1 ½ lbs medium-sized uncooked shrimp
3 c coconut milk
2 Tbsp green curry paste (recipe follows)
1 Tbsp kachai, pulverized or finely chopped/grated (or ginger if you have never heard of kachai, like myself)
2 Tbsp fish sauce
1 Tbsp fresh hot green chili strips (I omitted this and enjoyed the spice as was)
Cilantro and lime to garnish
Shell the shrimp and devein them. Wash with cold water, pat dry, and set aside (in the fridge if it’s going to be a while).
In a heavy saucepan, heat one cup of the coconut milk until it boils and then simmer and stir until the liquid is reduced to about ¼ cup. Add the green curry paste and the kachai/ginger, and cook briskly, still stirring from time to time, until most of the liquid in the pan has evaporated.
Add the shrimp and turn them about with a spoon for 3 or 4 minutes or until they are firm and pink. Stir in the remaining 2 cups coconut milk and the fish sauce and, stirring occasionally, simmer uncovered for 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning and garnish with cilantro and lime juice.
Serve at once from a deep heated platter or large bowl. Kaeng keao wan kung is traditionally accompanied by hot boiled rice (which I did, good to soak up all the sauce).
Green Curry Paste
makes about ½ cup
6 fresh green chilies, each about 2 inches long
2 Tbsp finely chopped shallots or scallions
1 Tbsp finely chopped garlic
1 Tbsp sereh (lemongrass’s cousin, of course)
1 Tbsp shrimp paste
1 tsp laos (ginger’s cousin)
1 tsp coriander seed, finely ground
1 tsp finely grated lemon peel
1 tsp salt
Wash the chilies, then stem and seed them (if you want really spicy, leave the seeds in). Slice them into rounds. In your mini-food processor (or whatever you may have), combine all the ingredients and pulse until well-combined, scraping down the edges as needed. Tightly covered and refrigerated, the paste may be safely kept for a month or so.
Wednesday, December 30, 2009
Tiramisu Cheesecake
Before I made it, I looked at a lot of different recipes online and found many that used the lady fingers crushed up and mixed with butter to provide the base, and some others that put them directly in the cake. I like the latter idea better and the rest of it was pretty simple. I did a normal cheesecake layer, then the soaked ladyfingers, and finally a top layer of sweetened mascarpone.
Not much else to say about this except I took it to a party and it was a big hit. And I was worried about soggy lady fingers sinking into cream cheese, but fears ended up being unfulfilled.

Tiramisu Cheesecake
crust
½ c butter (125 g)
1.5 box graham crackers or Maria cookies
pinch of salt
Crush cookies any way you can (beat them in a plastic bag, pulse them in a food processor), melt butter, and mix the two together with salt, then press on the bottom and up the sides of a springform pan. Bake at 170C/340F oven for 10 minutes.
cheesecake
600g cream cheese
1 c sugar, seperated
3 eggs
250g mascarpone
½ c marsala or sweet sherry
½ c espresso
ladyfingers
good chocolate for grating
pinch of salt
Mix the cream cheese at room temperature, with half the sugar. Seperate the eggs and whip the whites to soft peaks. Mix the yolks into the cream cheese, and then add a pinch of salt and fold in the egg whites. Pour the mixture into the prepared crust. Now mix the marsala and espresso together, dip the lady fingers in so they are well coated on all sides and moist, and then layer close together over the cream cheese. Finally mix the mascarpone with the remaining sugar, egg yolk, some salt, and when well combined, fold in the egg whites. Pour this over the ladyfingers and spread out evenly with a spatula. Now put in a preheated oven, still at 350F/170C and cook for about 30 minutes. My standard 'doneness' test is if the edges are set but it's still wobbly in the middle. When that happens, take it out and let cool. Store in the fridge overnight and just before serving, grate chocolate all over the top of it. Enjoy.


Thursday, October 22, 2009
Enchiladas Potosinas
People sometimes think Mexican is a bunch of grease and yellow cheese, and while Tex-Mex, which is close to my heart, might fit under that category more often than not, real Mexican is just as varied and regional as Italian cuisine (which others might argue is just a bunch of pasta and pizza; also, this is not the case). If you need any proof of this, I recommend the cookbook The Taste of Mexico by Patricia Quintana from 1986. This is also-pre Mexican explosion. Before it became trendy to make guacamole tableside in a molcajete and charge and arm and a leg for it. I think this book is the real deal. I’m really drawn to cookbooks that divide their foods by region, so you don’t feel like you’re getting a whole big mish-mash of what one might perceive as Mexican. And with the divisions in Quintana’s book, you see where seafood is a large player, get a taste of Mole Poblano, and see everything in between from various stews to different preparations of meats.
Enchiladas aren’t too cryptic to most Americans. You know it’s a tortilla, basically stuffed and rolled, covered in sauce and then baked. Depending how they’re prepared, they can be pretty Tex-Mexy. In The Taste of Mexico, I found a recipe for Enchiladas Potosinas where you make the corn tortillas yourself with a bit of chile ancho so they come out a brilliant dark red, stuff and lightly fry them, and then serve. In my book, these are not typical enchiladas. From what I’m used to, these were more like a take on empanadas or perhaps a gordita of some sort. Along with some guacamole, a sprinkle of queso fresco, and perhaps some sour cream, you garnish them with cilantro and onion…the only necessary condiments in real Mexican cooking which you’ll quickly find is tradiontal fashion after visiting a taco truck.
“Do you want everything on it?”
“What’s everything?”
“Cilantro and onion.”
“Yeah, sure. Everything.”
Enchiladas Potosinas
from The Taste of Mexico, Patricia Quintana, 1986
In the Tangamanga market in San Luis Potosi, local cooks prepare this typical dish on braziers while hungry market-goers huddle around them eagerly awaiting the fresh enchiladas.
For the stuffing
¼ c vegetable oil
½ cup white onion, chopped
1 c salsa verde (recipe to follow)
Salt to taste
2 ½ c queso fresco or ricotta or feta
For the dough
6 oz chiles anchos, lightly roasted, seeded, and deveined
2 cloves garlic, whole
1 tsp salt
2 ¼ lb fresh masa or equivalent made with masa harina
3 c vegetable oil
For the garnish
1 c queso fresco, crumbled
1 c white onion, finely chopped
2 c guacamole
Prepare the stuffing: heat oil in a frying pan. Sauté onion until soft. Add green sauce. Salt, and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes. Remove from heat, and cool. Stir in cheese.
Prepare the dough: soak chiles in water to cover for 25 minutes. Drain, and reserve soaking water. Blend chiles in a metate, blender, or food processor with garlic, salt, and a little soaking water. Add chile mixture to masa, and knead until dough is smooth and not sticky. If necessary, add more soaking water.
Divide dough into 24 balls, 2 inches in circumference. Make tortillas, using a tortilla press. Heat tortillas on a hot comal or griddle, turning once. Immediately place 1 teaspoon of stuffing in the center of tortilla, and fold over, like a turnover. Repeat, using all tortillas. Keep hot.
To serve, place enchiladas on a platter. Garnish with cheese and onion. Serve with guacamole.
The enchiladas can be made ahead through filling and folding. Freeze, and thaw at room temperature until partially thawed. Fry immediately.
Makes 24 enchiladas.
Salsa verde
1 qt water
12 tomatillos, husked
7 medium cloves garlic, whole
4 to 8 chiles serranos (vary according to preference of piquancy)
3 Tbsp white onion, coarsely chopped
Salt to taste
¾ c cilantro leaves, with a bit of stem
Bring water to a boil in a saucepan. Add tomatillos, 4 garlic cloves, 4 or more chiles, and onion. Cook over medium heat for 20 minutes, and remove from heat. Drain, and reserve cooking water. Cool.
Meanwhile, puree 3 garlic cloves in a molcajete or food processor, adding salt to taste. Add cilantro, and blend. Add tomatillo mixture. Add a little cooking water, and blend. The sauce should have a slightly thick consistency. Correct seasoning.
To serve, pour green sauce into a molcajete, and garnish with onion and cilantro.
Makes about 2 cups.
Masa
3 c masa harina
½ tsp salt
1 ½ to 2 c lukewarm water
Mix ingredients in a bowl with a fork. Gather into a ball, and kenad dough until smooth and no longer sticky. Cover with a towel, and allow to stand for 1 hour.
To make tortillas, line the base of a tortilla press with a sheet of plastic wrap or wit ha plastic sandwish bag. Pinch off balls of dough from the masa. (The size will vary, depdning on desired tortilla diameter; the balls are usually slightly bigger than a walnut). Center the masa on the lined tortilla-press base. Cover the masa with a sheet of plastic wrap. Lower the top of the press, and push down the handle. Open. The tortilla will have plastic wrap on the top and bottom.
Carefully peel away the plastic on top. Place your left hand under the tortilla. Flip the tortilla onto the right hand, so the plastic is on top. Carefully peel away plastic. Flip tortilla onto a preheated, very hot griddle or comal. When the tortilla begins to dry on the edges, flip it over. Cook until the top begins to puff. Tap lightly with your fingertips to allow even puffing, and let cook briefly, about 1 ½ to 2 minutes. Remove tortillas from the griddle, warp in a napkin or clean towel, and serve.
Preparing dried chiles
The first step in preparing dried chiles is careful washing. Since they often are sun-dried on the ground, the chiles usually are dusty and dirty. Next, remove the stems (if the chiles are not to be stuffed), and slit the chiles length-wise in order to remove the seeds and veins. Preheat a griddle, and roast the chiles very lightly, turning to roast on all sides. The dried chiles will puff and reconstitute slightly. Be careful not to burn them. Burned dried chiles produce an acrid taste.
Friday, September 25, 2009
Toot Toot, Beep Beep
But on this one I'm definitely tooting. Maybe because it's kind of a surprise, not in my usual play book. I'm gonna tell you right now, it's banana cake. Those words kind of make me a little nauseous, to tell you the truth. But I'm not done. It's more like an Elvis special. And it all started with some very mature bananas at work that were going to have to be thrown out. So I got to town making banana bread and then banana cake. And to make it bearable (and by bearable I mean amazingly rich and dreamy), I layered it with chocolate ganache and iced it with peanut butter frosting.
I am a sucker for peanut butter and bananas, and chocolate and peanut butter (or chocolate and anything), but for some reason, a dessert of banana cake falls to the bottom of my list. But it ended up being some of the moistest cake, on its own, that I've made. And dressed up with heavy chocolate ganache and some salty, whipped, peanut butter frosting, it's hard not to like this cake.
So toot toot.
Banana Cake with Chocolate Ganache and Peanut Butter Frosting
banana cake
2 ¼ c flour
¾ tsp baking soda
½ tsp baking powder
½ tsp salt
1 c (4) very ripe bananas bananas
¼ c buttermilk
1 tsp vanilla
2 stick butter
1 1/3 c sugar
2 eggs
Preheat an oven to 350F. Grease and one 9” springform pan or two 8” rounds (the first will provide three layers, the second four). With the butter at room temperature, cream it with the sugar. Mix together the dry ingredients. In a separate bowl, mush up the bananas and then add other wet ingredients, mixing everything well. Then add to the dry ingredients and incorporate everything, including the butter and sugar mixture. Pour into the pans and bake until a toothpick comes up just about dry, about 20-30 minutes. Let cool and then remove from pans. If you are using one pan, cut with a serrated knife into three portions. If you have used two pans, cut each in half.
chocolate ganache
1 ½ c heavy cream
1 lb good dark chocolate
Bring the cream to a simmer over the stove. When it’s just under a boil, remove from heat and stir in chocolate, until it’s completely melted. After you have cut the cakes and they have cooled, frost each layer with the ganache and stack.
peanut butter frosting
1 c creamy peanut butter
3 Tbsp butter, room temperature
2/3 c powdered sugar
1 tsp vanilla
pinch of salt
In an electric mixer, cream the butter and peanut butter together. On a low speed, at the powdered sugar a little at a time, and the vanilla and salt, until everything is mixed well. Taste and make sure you like the flavor. You can always tweak by adding more sugar or peanut butter. Your cake should be stacked now and layered with ganache. When you have the frosting ready, simply take a spatula and ice the outside of the cake. Now dig in.
P.S. This cake freezes very well, just defrost it and let it come to room temperature, or if you’re eating slice by slice, pop it in the microwave.